How to Iron Silk: Heat, Moisture and Steam Settings

Iron silk inside out, on the lowest heat setting, while the fabric is still slightly damp. Put a thin cotton pressing cloth between the iron and the silk, switch the steam off and never let the iron rest in one spot. If the creases are light, you don't need an iron at all: hanging the piece in a steamy bathroom is often enough.

Before you start

Check the care label first. The maker's instructions always come before general advice. The dots on the iron symbol show the highest temperature the soleplate should reach: one dot means up to 110°C (230°F), two dots up to 150°C (300°F), three dots up to 200°C (390°F). A crossed-out iron means the piece should not be ironed at all.

For JANESIA silk pieces the rule is one dot. If your iron has a setting marked silk, that works too, but irons heat differently from brand to brand. If you're unsure, start at the lowest setting. You will rarely need more heat; silk smooths out at a low temperature, it just asks for a little more patience.

Before you switch the iron on, check three things:

• Is there a stain? Heat sets stains into the fabric. If there is a sweat mark, make-up or an oil spot, deal with it first. The methods are in our guide to removing stains from silk.
• Is the fabric clean? Deodorant and perfume residue can turn yellow under heat. Don't iron a piece that has been worn but not washed.
• Is the soleplate clean? Limescale, scorch marks or old starch residue transfer easily onto pale silk. Wipe the soleplate with a damp cloth while the iron is cold.

How to iron silk, step by step

1. Get the moisture right. Silk smooths most easily when it is slightly damp after washing, before it has fully dried. If the piece is already dry, don't spray water on it; the droplets can dry into ring-shaped marks. Dampen the pressing cloth instead and wring it out well.
2. Turn it inside out. The iron should only touch the back of the fabric. That way the natural lustre of the face is protected.
3. Use a pressing cloth. A thin, white cotton cloth or a piece of muslin is enough. Avoid coloured, printed or linty cloths.
4. Set the iron to its lowest heat and switch off the steam. Let it warm up. Make the first touch on an inside seam allowance and watch how the fabric reacts.
5. Work in short, light strokes. Don't press down and don't hold the iron in one place. Silk doesn't need pressure; the weight of the iron is enough.
6. Go from small areas to large. Collar, cuffs, binding and the area around the lace first, then the wide panels. That way the parts you've finished don't crease again.
7. Let it cool. Put the piece on a hanger straight away. If you wear or fold it while it's still warm, the creases come back.

Why heat matters so much

Silk is a natural protein fibre. Too much heat first makes it stiff, then turns it yellow. Scorch marks and yellowing are usually permanent; washing won't remove them. The more common problem is shine: the iron flattens the surface of the fabric and leaves a glossy, polished-looking patch that reflects light differently from the rest. Ironing inside out with a pressing cloth largely removes both risks.

Lace needs its own care. The lace on nightwear is often made from a different fibre than the silk and has a raised texture. Lay the lace area on a folded towel with the right side of the lace facing the towel, then go over it from the back, through the cloth. The towel protects the relief, so the iron doesn't flatten the pattern.

Steam: when it helps and when it harms

Don't use your iron's steam button on silk, and don't aim steam directly at the fabric. Heavy steam can leave water marks, especially on smooth, lustrous weaves such as charmeuse.

The safe way to use steam is the indirect one:

• The bathroom method. After a hot shower, hang the piece in the bathroom and close the door. The humid air releases light creases on its own. Then let it dry completely on a hanger in a dry room. For a nightdress or robe worn for one night, this is often all it takes.
• A handheld garment steamer. If you use one, work from the inside, keep the head off the fabric, hold it at a distance and keep it moving. If the steamer drips or spits water, keep it away from silk. Make the first test on an inside seam.

If a water mark appears, don't dab water onto the spot alone; the ring will only grow. Dampen the whole panel evenly from seam to seam and let it dry in the shade. If it doesn't fade, take the piece to a dry cleaner who works with silk.

Tips by garment

Slip dress and long nightdress

Bias cut means the fabric is cut on the diagonal. It makes a garment flow over the body, but it also stretches easily under the iron. Don't pull the fabric, and keep the iron light enough that it never drags; if needed, lift it and set it down instead of sliding. On ankle-length pieces such as the Long Slip Dress and the Long Lace Nightdress, the bathroom method is usually enough. The iron is only needed for a stubborn fold line. Don't iron the thin bias straps; smooth them with your hand.

Pyjama set

For the shirt, work in this order: collar, shoulders, sleeves, front plackets, back. Go over a lace collar from the back, on a towel. Don't run the iron over the buttons; go around them. With shirt-and-trouser sets such as the Lace Pyjama Set, save the iron for the shirt. Silk trousers fall softly, don't need a sharp crease and usually smooth out on the hanger.

Men's robe and trousers

A shawl collar is cut to fall in a soft, rounded roll. Don't press it into a sharp fold; go over it lightly from the back, then shape it with your hand. On the Shawl-Collar Robe, don't let the iron rest on the binding at the collar, cuffs and pocket openings. Binding is sewn in layers, so shine shows there first. On trousers with an elastic waist, keep heat away from the elastic; it can loosen it.

Belt

A belt is long and narrow, so it slides around on an ironing board. Lay it on a flat surface and go over it from end to end in one pass, from the back and through the cloth. Don't hang a belt knotted; the knot leaves a mark that is hard to remove even with an iron.

Prevent creases in the first place

Most creases are made during washing, drying and storage. Get those three steps right and you'll rarely need the iron.

• Don't wring silk after washing. Roll the piece in a towel and press to take out the water. The full method is in how to wash silk.
• Dry robes and kimonos on a broad-shouldered hanger; silk straightens under its own weight. Dry other pieces on a hanger or flat, in the shade.
• Don't cram the wardrobe. Leave air between pieces; if you fold, put tissue paper in the folds. More in how to store silk.
• When you travel, roll silk in tissue paper instead of folding it. Hang it up as soon as you arrive.

A little creasing is in silk's nature. A nightdress or robe worn for one night will crease slightly; that isn't a flaw but a sign of a living fabric. The less you use the iron, the longer the fabric lasts.

What not to do

• Don't iron on the cotton or linen setting.
• Don't let the iron touch the right side directly.
• Don't spray water on the fabric.
• Don't iron a stained or sweaty piece.
• Don't hold the iron in one spot or press down.
• Don't fold or wear the piece while it's still warm.
• Don't use starch or anti-crease spray; the residue can leave marks.

If you get a shine mark or an iron mark

Light shine sometimes fades: cover the area with a damp cloth, touch it very briefly with the iron on the lowest setting, then let the piece dry on a hanger. Yellowing and scorch marks, however, are permanent. Don't expose the fabric to more heat; show it to a dry cleaner who works with silk.

These rules apply to the silk pieces in the nightdress collection and to all silk robes, pyjamas and men's pieces. For pieces that aren't silk, follow the care label. The full care guide is on one page: silk care. The care card that comes with every order lists the same rules.