How to Wash Silk: By Hand and in the Machine, Step by Step

If the label allows, silk is washed by hand or in a mesh bag on the machine's delicate cycle, in water no warmer than 30°C, with a gentle detergent. Turn it inside out, don't rub it and don't wring it. Press the water out with a towel and dry it in the shade, on a hanger or laid flat.

Check the label first

Not every silk behaves the same. Weave, dye, lining, lace and stitching details all react differently to washing. That is why the instructions on the label always come before this guide. If the label says dry clean only, keep the piece out of water.

A quick guide to the care symbols:

• Tub with a hand: hand wash only.
• Tub with 30 inside: 30°C maximum.
• One or two lines under the tub: delicate cycle, low spin. Two lines means even more delicate.
• Crossed-out tub: do not wash in water.
• Crossed-out triangle: do not bleach.
• Circle in a square, crossed out: do not tumble dry.
• Iron with one dot: iron on low heat.
• P or F in a circle: can be dry cleaned.

Before you wash

Colour test before the first wash

Dark and vivid silks may release a little dye in the first washes. Dampen a hidden spot, such as the inside seam allowance, with lukewarm water and press it gently with a white cloth. If colour transfers to the cloth, wash the piece on its own and don't let it soak. Don't put colours like red, plum or burgundy in the same water as light colours. On pieces with binding or lace in a contrasting colour, test both colours.

Preparation

Empty the pockets, take out the belt and wash it separately or put it in the same mesh bag. Fasten any hooks, buttons or strap adjusters; an open hook catches on the fabric. If there is a stain, find out what it is before washing, because some stains set further into the fabric with warm water.

How often should you wash silk?

Wash pieces worn directly against the skin, such as nightdresses, camisoles and pyjamas, every few wears. Pieces worn on top, like robes and kimonos, can be washed less often; airing them in between is usually enough. Don't put a piece straight back into the wardrobe after wearing it; let it air on a hanger for a while. Washing too often and too harshly tires silk, while washing too rarely leaves sweat in the fibre. The right rhythm is somewhere in between.

Hand washing: step by step

Hand washing is the gentlest method for silk. Set aside ten minutes and follow this order:

1. Turn it inside out. The face is protected from friction.
2. Prepare the basin. Lukewarm or cool water, no warmer than 30°C. Water that feels hot to your hand is too hot for silk.
3. Dissolve the detergent in the water. A small amount of gentle liquid detergent made for silk and wool. Don't pour detergent directly onto the fabric.
4. Wash gently. Press the piece under the water and move it softly for a few minutes. No rubbing, no brushing. Clean areas like the collar or underarms by pressing lightly with your fingertips.
5. Don't soak it for long. Don't leave silk in water for hours; a few minutes is enough.
6. Rinse. In clean water at the same temperature, until no suds remain. Change the water twice if needed.
7. Don't wring it. Let the water run off by pressing gently with your palms, then move on to the towel.

Machine washing: step by step

If the label allows machine washing, you can use the machine. What matters is keeping friction and heat low.

1. Turn it inside out and put it in a mesh bag. A separate bag for each piece is best. Lace and strap details won't catch inside the bag.
2. Keep the load light. Don't wash silk with zipped, buttoned or hooked items, or with hard fabrics like denim and towels.
3. Choose the cycle. Delicate, silk or hand-wash cycle. 30°C or below.
4. Lower the spin. Set the spin to the lowest speed your machine allows, or turn it off.
5. Measure the detergent. Gentle detergent, a small amount. No fabric softener, no bleach.
6. Take it out straight away. When the cycle ends, don't leave wet silk sitting in the drum; creases set in.

Which detergent?

Silk is a protein fibre. So liquid detergents made for silk and wool, described as gentle or pH-neutral, are suitable. What to avoid:

• Bleach and chlorine: weaken the fibre and spoil the colour.
• Fabric softener: leaves a residue on the surface and can dull the sheen.
• Enzyme detergents: stain-removing enzymes target protein stains; since silk is a protein too, they can damage the fibre. Don't use products labelled enzyme, biological or stain remover.
• Powder detergent: if it doesn't dissolve fully, it can leave marks on the fabric.

Drying, ironing and storage

1. Lay a clean, dry towel flat and spread the silk on top.
2. Roll it up with the towel and press gently. The water goes into the towel.
3. Hang the piece or lay it on a flat surface. A soft, wide-shouldered hanger works well for strappy nightdresses and slip dresses; laying flat works well for pyjamas and shorts.
4. Dry it in the shade. Direct sun fades the colour and can weaken the fibre. Don't hang it near a radiator or heater either.

Don't use a tumble dryer. Heat and tumbling can shrink silk and dull its surface. Pegs can leave marks too; if you use them, clip them onto the seam allowance or the inside of the hem.

Ironing and storage

Silk is ironed while slightly damp, inside out and on low heat, at the one-dot setting. Don't aim steam directly at the fabric; it can leave water marks. The details are in how to iron silk. Store the dry piece in a dust bag, in a breathable wardrobe out of the sun, on a hanger or loosely folded. For long-term storage, see how to store silk clothes.

Common mistakes

• Hot water: don't go above 30°C. Hot water can spoil the colour and the sheen.
• Rubbing a stain: the fibre breaks and the spot turns dull. For stains, see how to remove stains from silk.
• Wringing: the fibres stretch and the fabric can be left with a permanent mark.
• Dressing before perfume dries: perfume and deodorant can stain silk. Apply them, let them dry, then get dressed.
• Leaving sweat in: sweat left in the fabric for a long time can cause marks and colour change. Don't leave dirty silk in the laundry basket for days.
• Dabbing a water mark: wetting a single spot can leave a ring. If needed, wash the whole piece.

When to dry clean

If the label says dry clean, if the piece has a lining, fusible interfacing or embroidery, or if it has picked up a large oil or wine stain, take it to a dry cleaner who knows silk. Tell them what the stain is and when it happened; that makes it easier to choose the right method.

Caring for JANESIA silk pieces

Care for JANESIA silk pieces follows the same rules. A summary is on the care page and on the care card that comes with every order; the label still comes first. On lace-trimmed pieces like the Lace Pyjama Set or the Lace Cami + Shorts, a mesh bag stops the lace from catching. The men's Lounge Set · 3 Pieces is a robe, shorts and trousers; you can wash all three together with silks of the same colour, but don't put dark colours in the same water as off-white. For other styles, see the Women and Men collections.